Tuesday, 13 April 2010

Making skirt lining

I made the skirt lining similarly to the outer shell. Once I had sewed the sides together, still leaving a gap for the zip on the left side, I pinned the top hemline to the corresponding hemline on the skirt. I then sewed along this hemline with a machine.
I slipstitched the lining to the skirt at the lower hemline. Finally, I slipstitched the lining right up to the edge of the zipper to give it a neat finish, and ironed the seams flat.

Cutting skirt fabric


I made the pattern for the skirt myself by making an initial toile which I tested for size and shape by trying it on myself. I pinned the pattern pieces onto the velvet fabric and cut them out. Then I pinned them together and sewed with a machine alond the side seams leaving space for a hidden zipper on the left side.
I pinned the hidden zip into the seam and sewed with a zipper foot.

Making and Attaching the Extension













Unfortunately I lost the piece of the paper pattern for the extension so I made one up myself in order to stay on time. I cut a rectangular shape out of my houndstooth fabric and the interfacing which I then ironed on. I folded it in half vertically and sewed the two opposite edges together and turned it the right way round.
Next, I pinned and sewed the extention onto the corset on the lining side. I used a sewing maching to attach them.
Then I cut the hook and eye bands to size and sewed the eyes to the outershell of the corset. I slipstitched the extention to the corset under the hook band.

Slip-stitching Armholes


Now I needed to stitch the armholes which I had left unsewn. I started by folding the lining and fabric over on themselves by around 1 cm. Then I pinned the lining to the fabric in this position, ready to be slipstitched.
Then, I slipstitched both armholes carefully. I did not need to re-do this stage.

Trimming and Ironing seams

Once I had finished sewing the lining onto the corset I trimmed the seams to 1cm wide. This was so that when it comes to turning it inside out the seams will be flatter and more aesthetically pleasing. At the armholes I trimmed off slightly more and trimmed the corners off the perpendicular seams to stop the fabric bunching up at these areas.

Next, I turned the lining to the inside of the corset by pulling the fabric through a gap I left on the front left side. I needed to iron the corset flat at the seams so that none of the lining showed from the outside. I pinned the lining to the fabric leaving a small amount of the outer fabric visible to ensure no lining would be visible from the outside.